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A smell or light smoke the first few times you use a new oven is normal. It is the protective coatings and insulation curing off, and it clears within a few uses.

1. Open a window or turn on your cooker hood for ventilation.
2. Remove all packaging, stickers and accessories from inside the cavity.
3. Run the empty oven at around 200 degrees for 30 to 45 minutes to cure the coatings.
4. Wipe the cool cavity with a damp cloth afterwards.

This is expected behaviour and needs no repair. If smoke is heavy, does not reduce with each use, or comes with a burning plastic smell, stop using the oven and book a repair.

If a new oven will not heat, the most common causes are the clock not being set or the oven being in demo mode. Many ovens will not switch on the heating elements until the time is set.

1. Set the clock. A flashing time display usually means the oven is waiting for the time to be entered before it will heat.
2. Check the function dial or touch controls are set to a real cooking function, not the light or clock only setting.
3. Look for a demo or shop mode indicator in the manual and switch it off if present.
4. Make sure the oven is switched on at the wall or isolator switch.

Setting the clock resolves most new oven no heat reports. If the oven still will not heat after this, book a repair.

An oven that trips the electrics on installation is usually a wiring or supply issue at the connection, not a faulty appliance.

1. Confirm the oven was connected by a qualified electrician on a suitably rated circuit.
2. Check nothing else heavy is sharing the same circuit and overloading it.
3. Have the electrician verify the connection, the fuse rating and the consumer unit (fuse board).

Electrical connection work should only be done by a qualified electrician. If the oven trips a correctly wired dedicated circuit, book a repair.

A fan that runs on after you switch the oven off is normal. It cools the electronics and door, and stops on its own once the oven has cooled.

1. Leave the oven at the wall switch on so the fan can finish its cycle.
2. Wait for the cavity to cool. The fan usually runs for several minutes up to around half an hour.

This protects the appliance and is not a fault. If the fan never stops even when the oven is stone cold, book a repair.

Some condensation on the door glass during and after cooking is normal, especially with moist foods. It clears as the oven warms up and vents.

1. Preheat fully before adding food so the cavity is up to temperature.
2. Avoid opening the door repeatedly during cooking.
3. Wipe the glass once the oven has cooled.

Light condensation is normal. Pooling water inside the door or between the glass panes is worth reporting, so book a repair if you see it.

An induction hob only works with magnetic pans, so if it will not detect your pan the most likely reason is that the pan is not induction compatible or is too small for the zone.

1. Do the magnet test. If a fridge magnet sticks firmly to the base of the pan, it will work on induction. If it does not stick, the pan will not be detected.
2. Check the pan base is flat and covers enough of the zone. A base that is too small may not register.
3. Make sure the pan is centred on the ring.
4. Confirm you have set a power level, as some hobs show the zone but will not activate at zero.

If a magnetic, correctly sized pan still is not detected on any zone, book a repair.

A low buzz, hum or occasional click from an induction hob is normal, particularly at high power or with lighter pans. It comes from the energy transfer between the hob and the pan.

1. Try a heavier, thicker based pan, which usually reduces the noise.
2. Lower the power level slightly to see if the buzz eases.
3. Make sure the pan base is clean, dry and sitting flat.

These sounds are part of how induction works and are not a fault.

A new hob that lights up but will not heat is often in control lock or demo mode. Both are settings that can be switched off.

1. Look for a key or lock symbol. Press and hold the lock button for a few seconds to release the child lock.
2. Check the manual for the demo or shop mode exit sequence and follow it.
3. Wipe any water or spills off the touch panel, as moisture can block the controls.

Once unlocked and out of demo mode the hob should heat normally. If it still will not, book a repair.

An error code on a new hob is often triggered by moisture on the controls, an incompatible pan, or the panel needing a reset rather than a hardware fault.

1. Dry the glass and touch controls completely.
2. Switch the hob off at the wall for a minute, then back on to reset it.
3. Check the code against the fault table in your manual.

If the same code returns after drying and a reset, note it down and book a repair.

On a new gas hob a burner that clicks but will not light is usually down to the burner parts not being seated correctly or air still in the supply.

1. Check the burner cap and crown are sitting flat and correctly aligned. They can move during delivery.
2. Make sure the cap and igniter are clean and dry.
3. Turn the gas supply fully on and allow a moment for any air to clear.
4. Hold the control in for a few seconds to let the flame settle.

Gas connection must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If the burner still will not light with the caps correctly seated, book a repair.

Weak extraction on a new cooker hood is usually caused by protective film left on the filter, the wrong filter setup for recirculation, or restricted ducting rather than a faulty motor.

1. Remove any protective plastic film from the grease filters, which is easy to miss on a new hood.
2. Work out if the hood is ducted to outside or recirculating. A recirculating hood needs carbon filters fitted to clear odours.
3. Check the ducting is as short and straight as possible, with no kinks or crushed sections.
4. Confirm the external vent flap opens freely if the hood is ducted outside.

Once the film is off and the filter and ducting are correct, extraction should improve noticeably. If it stays weak, book a repair.

If the hood lights do not come on but the fan works, check the light is switched at the panel and the power connection is correct before assuming a fault.

1. Press the dedicated light button, which is separate from the fan controls.
2. Check the hood is fully powered and connected correctly by the installer.
3. Confirm any bulb or LED unit is seated properly if the manual allows you to check.

If the lights still do not work with the fan running normally, book a repair.

Unresponsive controls on a new hood are often down to power not being switched on, a remote needing its battery tab removed, or the remote not yet paired.

1. Confirm the hood is switched on at the wall or isolator.
2. Remove the plastic battery tab from a new remote, or fit the battery if supplied separately.
3. Follow the pairing steps in the manual if the remote needs syncing to the hood.

If the controls still do not respond after this, book a repair.

Cooker hoods make noticeable airflow noise, and this increases on higher speeds. A steady rush of air is normal, while grinding or rattling is not.

1. Use lower speeds for gentle cooking and the boost setting only when needed.
2. Check the filters are clipped in securely, as a loose filter can rattle.
3. Listen for the type of noise. Airflow is normal, grinding or knocking is not.

Airflow noise is expected. If you hear grinding, knocking or rattling from the motor, book a repair.

If a new microwave will not start, the usual causes are the door not being fully closed, a child lock being active, the clock not being set, or the unit being in demo mode.

1. Close the door firmly until it clicks. The microwave will not run if the door safety catch is not fully engaged.
2. Set the clock if the display is prompting for the time.
3. Release the child lock, usually by holding the stop or lock button.
4. Exit demo or shop mode using the sequence in the manual.
5. Press start after entering a time or programme.

These setup checks resolve most new microwave start problems. If none apply and it still will not run, book a repair.

A turntable that will not rotate is usually seated incorrectly on its roller ring or coupling rather than being broken.

1. Remove the glass plate and check the roller ring sits flat in the base.
2. Seat the glass plate so its centre engages the drive coupling.
3. Make sure nothing is jamming the plate, such as a large dish catching the sides.

Reseating the plate fixes most cases. If the coupling still will not drive the plate, book a repair.

Sparking inside a microwave is almost always caused by metal in the cavity, packaging left inside, or a dislodged waveguide cover, so stop and check before using it again.

1. Stop the microwave and remove any metal, foil, or dishes with metallic trim.
2. Remove all internal packaging, cardboard and protective sheets.
3. Check the thin waveguide cover on the inside wall is in place and clean.

Do not keep running a sparking microwave. If it still arcs with an empty, clean cavity and the cover in place, book a repair.

A hum or buzz while a microwave is running is normal and comes from the internal parts that generate the microwave energy.

1. Note that the pitch can change with the power level, which is normal.
2. Make sure the turntable and plate are seated so they do not rattle.

Operating noise is expected. Loud grinding or a very harsh buzz is worth reporting, so book a repair if you hear it.

A smell the first time you use the grill or combination function on a new microwave is normal, as the grill element burns off its manufacturing residue.

1. Ventilate the kitchen.
2. Run the empty grill function for a few minutes as directed in the manual.
3. Wipe the cool cavity afterwards.

The smell clears after the first uses and is not a fault.

A glass splashback can look slightly different to a small sample because the glass itself adds a subtle tint and the shade shifts with your lighting and the size of the panel.

1. View the panel in your own kitchen lighting, both daylight and artificial, before judging the colour.
2. Remember that a large panel reads differently to a small swatch.
3. Note that clear glass adds a faint green tint, which is normal and most visible on pale colours.

A slight shift from the sample is normal for painted glass. If the colour is clearly wrong for what you ordered, contact us before fitting.

Always inspect a splashback for chips or scratches before you fit it, because once it is installed it is treated as accepted.

1. Unpack carefully and check all edges and the face in good light.
2. Do not fit the panel if you find damage.
3. Keep the packaging and take clear photos of any damage.
4. Report it to us straight away so we can put it right.

Report any transit damage before fitting. Contact us as soon as you spot it.

A glass splashback is fixed with a suitable adhesive onto a clean, flat, dry wall, with any socket cut outs planned before ordering.

1. Make sure the wall is clean, flat and fully dry.
2. Use an adhesive suitable for glass and follow its instructions.
3. Have any socket or switch cut outs measured and made before delivery, as toughened glass cannot be cut once made.
4. Support the panel while the adhesive sets.

If you are unsure, a professional fitter is worth using for a clean finish.

Clean a glass splashback with a soft cloth and a mild glass cleaner, and avoid abrasive pads or harsh chemicals that can dull the finish.

1. Use a soft microfibre cloth and a standard glass cleaner.
2. Avoid abrasive scourers, scouring powders and harsh solvents.
3. Wipe up spills promptly to keep the surface looking its best.

Gentle cleaning keeps the painted finish looking new.

Toughened glass splashbacks are designed to sit behind a hob, but you must keep the clearance stated in your hob and splashback instructions between the burners and the glass.

1. Check the minimum clearance in both the hob and splashback instructions.
2. Keep gas burners in particular the required distance from the glass.
3. Do not fit a standard acrylic splashback directly behind a hob, as it is not suitable for that heat.

Follow the stated clearances and the glass will handle normal cooking heat.

If a new washing machine shakes violently, bangs, moves, or will not spin, the transit bolts are almost always still fitted. These bolts hold the drum still for delivery and must be removed before use.

1. Switch off and unplug the machine.
2. Look at the back for three or four large bolts, usually around the rear panel.
3. Undo and remove the transit bolts with the spanner supplied, then fit the blanking caps.
4. Keep the bolts safe in case you ever move the machine again.
5. Check the machine is level and the feet are stable.

Removing the transit bolts resolves the large majority of new washer vibration and spin problems. If it still shakes badly after this, book a repair.

A new machine that will not fill or drain usually has the water supply turned off, a kinked hose, or a filter and hose that need checking rather than a fault.

1. Make sure the water inlet tap is fully open.
2. Check the fill and drain hoses are not kinked, trapped or squashed behind the machine.
3. Make sure the drain hose is at the correct height and not pushed too far into the standpipe.
4. Clean the filter at the front bottom of the machine if draining is slow.

If the supply and hoses are correct and it still will not fill or drain, book a repair.

A washing machine door stays locked while a cycle is running and for a short time after, and it will not open if there is still water in the drum.

1. Wait a couple of minutes after the cycle ends for the safety lock to release.
2. If there is water in the drum, run a drain or spin programme first.
3. Check whether a child lock is active and release it.
4. Use the emergency door release in the manual only as a last resort, and only when drained.

The delay is a safety feature. If the door still will not open once drained and idle, book a repair.

Excess foam in a new machine is nearly always too much detergent or the wrong type for the machine, not a fault.

1. Use the dose on the pack for your load size and water hardness, and less if you have soft water.
2. Use detergent made for automatic washing machines only.
3. Run a rinse cycle to clear heavy suds.

Reducing the dose fixes almost all foaming. Persistent foaming with the correct dose is worth reporting, so book a repair.

A leak from a newly installed machine is most often a loose hose connection or the filter cover not being fully closed rather than the machine itself.

1. Switch off and unplug the machine, and turn off the water tap.
2. Check the fill and drain hose connections are tight and the seals are seated.
3. Make sure the filter cover at the front is fully closed after any check.
4. Dry the area and run a short cycle to see where water appears.

If the connections are tight and it still leaks, stop using it and book a repair.

Error codes on a first wash are often linked to water supply, drainage or the door not being latched, so check these before assuming a hardware fault.

1. Make sure the door is fully closed and the tap is open.
2. Check the drain hose and filter for blockages or kinks.
3. Switch off at the wall for a minute to reset, then restart.
4. Look up the specific code in your manual.

If the same code returns after these checks, note it and book a repair.

A new fridge or freezer needs time to reach temperature. Allow up to 24 hours for it to fully cool down, and do not fill it with food straight away.

1. Run the appliance empty for several hours before loading it.
2. Allow up to 24 hours to reach the set temperature.
3. Keep the door closed as much as possible while it cools.
4. Do not pack it full immediately, as warm food raises the internal temperature.

Give it a full day before judging the temperature. If it is still not cold after 24 hours, book a repair.

A cooling appliance should stand upright for several hours before being switched on, so the refrigerant and oil can settle after transport.

1. Stand the appliance upright in its final position.
2. Wait at least a few hours, or overnight if it was delivered on its side.
3. Only then switch it on and allow it to cool.

This settling time helps the appliance cool correctly and reach its rated performance.

Some condensation or water droplets on the back wall inside a fridge are normal. It forms as part of the cooling cycle and drains away by itself.

1. Keep the door closed and avoid opening it too often.
2. Do not block the small drain hole at the back of the fridge compartment.
3. Leave a gap around items so air can circulate.

Light condensation is part of normal operation. Standing water pooling in the base that never clears is worth reporting, so book a repair.

Gurgling, clicking and humming from a fridge or freezer are normal sounds of the refrigerant moving and the compressor and thermostat switching on and off.

1. Expect a hum from the compressor and gurgling from the refrigerant.
2. Expect occasional clicks as the thermostat cycles.
3. Make sure the appliance is level and not touching the surrounding units, which can amplify noise.

These sounds are normal. Loud rattling or a harsh vibration usually means the appliance is touching a unit or is not level.

Food freezing in the fridge section is usually caused by the thermostat being set too cold or items being pushed against the cold back wall.

1. Set the fridge to a moderate setting rather than the coldest.
2. Keep fresh food away from the back wall, where it is coldest.
3. Avoid overfilling, which blocks airflow and creates cold spots.

Adjusting the setting and moving food off the back wall fixes most cases. If food still freezes, book a repair.

A door that seems not to seal on a new appliance is often down to transit tape still in place, the seal needing to settle, or the integrated door alignment needing adjustment.

1. Remove all transit tape and packaging from around the door and seal.
2. Let the seal settle, as it can be slightly compressed from packaging.
3. Check the appliance is level, since a lean stops the door closing evenly.
4. Check the integrated furniture door is aligned and not fouling the cabinet.

If the seal still does not close correctly after this, book a repair.

A new wine cooler needs time to settle and reach temperature, and its performance also depends on the room being within its rated ambient range and the cooler not being overfilled.

1. Stand it upright for a few hours before switching on, then allow up to 24 hours to reach temperature.
2. Check the room temperature is within the range in the manual, as very cold or very warm rooms affect cooling.
3. Do not overfill, and leave space for air to move around the bottles.
4. Keep the door closed while it settles.

Give it 24 hours in a suitable room before judging it. If it still will not hold temperature, book a repair.

Condensation on the glass door of a wine cooler is normal in warm or humid conditions and when there is a big difference between the room and the set temperature.

1. Wipe the glass with a soft dry cloth.
2. Make sure the door closes fully and the seal is clean.
3. Expect more condensation in humid weather, which clears as conditions change.

This is a normal effect of humidity and not a fault.

Small temperature changes in a wine cooler are normal as it cycles to hold the set point, and the display can move a little each time the door is opened.

1. Avoid opening the door frequently, which lets warm air in.
2. Allow time for the temperature to recover after loading bottles.
3. Keep the cooler out of direct sunlight and away from heat sources.

Minor variation is normal and protects the wine. Large swings that never settle are worth reporting, so book a repair.

A gentle hum or vibration from a wine cooler is normal and comes from the cooling system running to hold the temperature.

1. Make sure the cooler is level and stable on the floor.
2. Check it is not touching surrounding cabinets, which can amplify the noise.
3. Leave the ventilation gaps clear as stated in the manual.

Operating noise is expected. Loud knocking or rattling is worth reporting, so book a repair.

The interior light on a wine cooler is controlled by a button and is usually meant for display rather than staying on all the time.

1. Press the light button on the control panel to switch it on or off.
2. Check the manual, as some models turn the light off automatically to protect the wine.

If the light does not work with the cooler running normally, book a repair.